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There are two kinds of melanin found in the hair: eumelanin (the most common and responsible for hair shades from brown to black) and phaeomelanin (responsible for yellowish-blond, ginger and red colors). Absence of pigment produces white/gray hair.
Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex to deposit or remove the color.
There are two main chemical ingredients involved in any permanent or semi-permanent colouring process:
Hydrogen peroxide
Also known as the developer or oxidizing agent, this ingredient in varying forms and strengths helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color. The larger the volume of the developer, the greater the amount of sulfur is removed from the hair. Loss of sulfur causes hair to harden and lose weight. This is why, for the majority of hair coloring, the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.
Ammonia
This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Like all alkalines, ammonia tends to separate the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair.
How these work:
If you're blonde and are going darker, for example to brown, permanent hair color uses the interaction between the ammonia and the peroxide to create a new color base in your hair shafts.
If you go in the opposite direction, for example from black or brown to blonde, the hair goes through an additional step. First, bleach is used to strip the color from the hair. Then the ammonia-peroxide reaction creates the new color and deposits it in the hair shaft.
If you use a semi-permanent color, the hair is coated with color, rather than deposited into the hair shaft.
Hair Colouring is grouped into three categories based on how long the colour remains:
- Semi-Permanent: 6 to 12 shampoos.
- Demi-Permanent: 24 to 26 shampoos.
- Permanent: Longer than 26 shampoos, but requiring touch-ups between 4-6 weeks.
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